Incredible views, paddling, wildlife and campsites.
Planning the Kayak Camping Trip
I knew when planning our kayaking trip on the South Fork of the New River that it would be a unique adventure. I had no idea just how much it would change my perspective of backcountry camping, accessibility, and the Jefferson area.
Our journey began very similar to most of our other backcountry excursions, with prepping and planning capped off with a healthy dose of last-minute guesswork. The known items were simple: where and how we would camp, the individual pieces of gear we would need, and attire. We could pack those items with our eyes closed. But this was also a trip of firsts.
Preparing for the Adventure
I’d need a lifejacket (even though I’d barely touch it throughout the entire trip), something to keep the sun off of me, even a spare paddle. All things I learned watching the previous trips other paddlers shared on YouTube (one of my favorites).
But there were other firsts.
This was the first time Erin and I had done some backcountry camping together in over 12 years. While we car camp and scout camp together on a regular basis, only I tend to venture far into the wilderness overnight. Sure, we’ve hiked and utilized base camps, and that’s all fun, but to me, there is nothing quite like getting well off the grid, watching cell phone service disconnect, and finally feeling one with nature. But I digress.
The Unique Experience of Kayak Camping
While this trip had all the trappings of a classic backcountry adventure, it would soon prove to be completely different in many ways. Traveling up the New (which as a whole flows from South to North), you pass old farms, waterwheel-powered mills, shacks, mansions, retreats, and parklands. There are bridges to travel under, shoals to navigate around, and so much wildlife to take in. And while you feel removed from society, you are still very much surrounded by people.
This is something that would irk me during a traditional backpacking trip. If I were to pack my gear, drive three hours to the wilderness, get on a trail, hike for 8 miles, and realize there was a neighborhood next to the campsite, I’d probably hike 8 miles back to my car in the dark, grumbling the whole way. But this was different, and as a new kayaker, I found it comforting. Especially as a new kayaker in an inflatable kayak. More on that later.
Starting the Journey
Details on the trip: We started at Zaloos Canoes, right there off NC-16, where we unloaded our gear. I then followed a guide driving a Zaloos Van from their spot to the northernmost part of our trip, The New River State Park 221 Access. I parked the van there and took a trip back to Zaloos with a guide named Sam and two guys who just completed the same trip Erin and I were about to embark on.
They stayed the night before at the same campground, only at a different site. They fished, paddled, and camped and, from their telling, had a wonderful night in the woods. I crossed my fingers that we would exit the river with the same enthusiasm at the end of our journey.
Launching on the New River
Arriving back at Zaloos, I bid the guys farewell and joined Erin on the bank of the river. Kayakers and tubers were launching from all different spots near Zaloos. The river was dotted with folks, but being avid hikers, I knew that as soon as we got a few miles behind us, the crowds would fade, and we’d be given the solitude we sought.
We loaded the remaining items in our kayaks and pushed off. I was so excited that I was hissing. My excitement soon faded as I realized it was my inflatable kayak that was hissing. We were still within sight of Zaloos, and I was losing air. I had a feeling I’d need to use a patch kit at some point on the trip; I didn’t expect it would be immediately. I searched the kayak for the hole as we slowly floated up the river.
Navigating the River
As we passed Sheets Bridge, I was able to determine it was the floor or base section of the kayak that was losing air. I wasn’t taking on water, and the main air chambers along the sides were holding steady, so we decided to push on. We’d stop and patch the hole if we needed to, but for now, we were pushing on.
The next few miles would prove to be fairly standard for the river as a whole, at least the 19-mile section we navigated. Long stretches of simple paddling punctuated by shallow shoals and mild, class 1 (maybe 2?) rapids. Nothing that had me reaching for my PFD, although I was glad I had it.
Enjoying the Scenery
Along the way on these early miles, we enjoyed great views of the mountains in the distance. Willows and other sprawling shade trees seemed to line most of the shores, providing a new type of green tunnel for us to navigate. Here we’d pass an old mill, several cows along the bank, and lots of groups out enjoying the river. You could have one heck of a day trip between Zaloos and the Wagoner access of New River State Park – but where’s the fun in that!
Reaching Riverbend Campsites
While the topography of the river stayed relatively unchanged, the crowds thinned dramatically after passing the Wagoner Access. We saw fewer houses too, more animals, more farmland, less noise. It was lovely. We saw otters swimming through the river and playing on the shore, more cows, deer, and whole families of ducks and geese.
I was surprised that we’d paddled as far as we did by the time we reached the Riverbend Campsites. Over 8.5 miles. But our day wasn’t over, not even close; now we’d aim to set up camp, gather firewood, and explore this massive and stunning section of the park that we had all to ourselves.
Setting Up Camp
I was a little bothered for a second when I assumed that the kayakers who stopped to enjoy a snack would be camping there with us, but was relieved when they turned out to be solid dudes who would be moving on for the evening. The park keeps a wheelbarrow at the put-in site so that you can easily cart your goods to the campsites themselves, as they are quite a walk from the access. You won’t mind the walk. It’s incredible. This is quite possibly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever camped. It was stunning, serene, and comfortable. The long lines of pine not only were visually striking but giving.
They gifted our weary, water-logged feet a soft carpet to walk barefoot on and tons of fallen branches to burn at camp.
Evening by the Fire
We collected piles of sticks in varying sizes. I think Erin thought I was overzealous at first – that we could possibly burn all of that wood. I knew better; if you think you’ve gathered enough wood, you haven’t. You should gather a bit more, and then a bit more after that. Unless it rains, I’m typically burning everything I gathered.
I’ll gladly sit beside a dwindling fire for hours, slowly keeping it alive with sticks and blasts of the bellows. And we did, after eating our bagged backpacking meals, we sat beside that fire until late. Neither of us wanted the evening to end. We saw synchronous fireflies across the river and peeked at the stars.
We snacked, hung our food on a bear line, and turned in for the night.
Morning on the River
Our weather was perfect, nice and cool with a slight breeze, and a sprinkle of rain the next morning as we rose. We spent the morning snacking, packing, and patching. Erin was able to find the hole in the “floor” right near the seat. I’m sure I popped it when I initially entered the kayak, and while it would prove to steer a bit better and be a little more comfortable with the bottom inflated, it wasn’t vastly different. While packing the wheelbarrow to take one of many trips back to the launch, we spotted the largest spider I’d ever seen in the woods in North Carolina, a fishing spider, then we couldn’t find it again – slightly unnerving.
Continuing the Journey
The next section of the river wasn’t as enjoyable as the previous day. Once you leave the Riverbend Campsites, you are forced to navigate what feels like endless shoals. This too shall pass, lending to some of the fastest water we encountered on our trip, even a waterfall hidden behind thick cover along the shore. Once you get to the low clearance at the Fulton-Reeves bridge, where you have to decide if you’re going to portage or duck low, you only have a few miles remaining. You know you’re getting close as the state park’s trees, larger than on most other sections of the river, begin to provide shade in increasing quantities.
Ending the Trip
Soon, after passing a final shoal, I shed a tear as I recognized the ramp where we had picked up the two paddlers in the Zaloos van just 24 hours earlier. Our journey had come to an end, but it was obvious at that point in time that we would gladly do another kayak camping trip.
Reflections on Gear and Experience
Some parting thoughts on gear. I’ll get right to it. Should you do this trip in an inflatable kayak? Not unless you don’t have any other options. I was shocked at the durability of the Intex. I got hung up on or scooted over at least 50 rocks during this trip, and the only hole I had to contend with was one I inadvertently caused when boarding the boat.
Also, not for nothing, the patch kit worked! It still holds to this day. If you have an inflatable that is in good shape, you CAN do this trip in it, but you will be paddling three or four times harder than your companions in hard-shell kayaks. The inflatables just don’t track well, so steering and oversteering were consistent points of contention. I left the fin off the kayak, and I’m glad I did; it only would’ve caused me to get caught on more rocks.
Recommendations for Future Trips
If you do this trip, I’d recommend a hard kayak. Also, I’d recommend going when the gauge height is over 3’; probably at 3.5’, you’d have a great trip and wouldn’t be bothered by shoals at all – however, that would turn these shoals into class 2 and possibly 3 rapids in some locations.
The guys I met the morning we embarked on our journey were jealous when they realized they could’ve parked their vehicle at the end of their journey. This is the way to do it. Park your car at the end so you can load up and get out instead of waiting on a shuttle.
Final Thoughts
This was the first time I’d ever brought a chair into the backcountry, and it was GLORIOUS. Erin and I each brought small backpacking chairs, and it was SO NICE to sit in a good chair by the fire all night. If you’re paddling, you will not notice the extra weight and should 100% bring a chair with you.
I wore my cowboy hat the whole time I was on the river, and it saved me from getting a burn. Even though it wasn’t hot, the sun was out both days with few clouds. It was super comfortable, and I really enjoyed the shade; it also didn’t make my head hot like I was afraid. Typically, I hike in a trucker cap or hat of some sort of breathable material, whereas the cowboy hat is canvas, heavier, and has a wide brim. You don’t need a cowboy hat, but you’ll want something to keep the sun off your neck, shoulders, and face.
Footwear and Safety
Lastly, Erin and I both paddled in our trail runners. I’m not saying that wasn’t a great idea, but neither of us brought camp shoes. I’ll typically bring a pair of flip-flops to wear around camp but didn’t. Fortunately, the ground was so soft with long pine needles that we were able to safely and comfortably navigate sans shoes, but that won’t be the case at other locales. I would recommend a river or paddling shoe that drains well. You don’t want to kayak in flops, maybe Tevas, but I want some toe protection when getting out and walking around on the river rocks.
Q&A
Can you do this with kids? Yes, older kids who have some experience around water and understand how to paddle would have a great time on this trip.
Would you do it again? Yes, in a heartbeat – although I’d probably do another section of the river and go for two nights instead of one.
Would you use the inflatable again? Yes, if the water is high enough and I have literally no other options, then yes, I would use it again. It’s the Geo Metro of kayaks. It’s not terribly comfortable, it’s not fast, it doesn’t handle well, but it will, eventually, get you there. That all being said – they are very convenient. You deflate it, roll it up and put it in the trunk. You don’t need special racks or ratchet straps to transport it. If this is the device that lets you get out on the water – do it. Worst case scenario is it pops and you lose some gear; you aren’t going to flip it – that’s for damn sure.
Anything you wouldn’t bring? Stanley French press coffee maker, didn’t use it. It’s bulky, it makes a damn good cup of coffee though. While I really enjoy using the french press with car camping, I’m going to continue to stick with instant coffee in the backcountry.
Dangerous Wildlife? Just because we didn’t see any doesn’t mean they aren’t out there. I would always recommend using a bear hang in the backcountry unless there are boxes onsite or you’re using a canister. Remember, a fed bear is a dead bear; keeping bears away from your food is not just self-preservation, it’s conservation too.
This is a great trip for beginners. While I’m no stranger to the backcountry and wild spaces of North Carolina, this was my first trip in a kayak like this. I’d highly recommend it as a way to change up your typical summer camping trip and enjoy some mountain water.
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